Playing Polo(s)
- fabman556
- Sep 7, 2017
- 3 min read
Printed Knit Polo Shirts?
Seems that these shirts are a big trend this year, especially in the brands I like to, um, "interpret." So, I felt that an experiment was in order.
Looking through my shirt patterns, I discovered a Kwik Sew polo shirt pattern that I had used somewhere back in the mists of time. Pattern on hand? Check.
Now to find fabric; nothing in the stash, so I checked into other options. I had access to some sample yardage of cotton/spandex jersey at work, and since I like to test-sew our product, these options would work for some test polo shirts. (The prints are a bit more eclectic than those in the inspiration I had gathered, but those who know me understand that I'm all about eclectic.)
Experiment #1
For the first test shirt, I chose the tie-dye print. Working with spandex fabrics can be a challenge, as they have four-way stretch and can move as they're being sewn...a rippling effect. (Those of us relics from the '70s remember the intentionally rippled "lettuce edge" hems used on poly interlock and Qiana knits of the day.) With no access to pre-made knitted collars these days (we had them back in the '80s, but I have not been able to locate them now), I decided to use woven fabric for the collar and front placket; another option would be to use self-fabric.
The knit fabric had been pre-washed and that removed the stabilizer, causing the selvages to roll up a bit and requiring a bit of pinning to make the fabric flat enough to cut out. Since the shirt fronts and backs are each cut on a fold, it was necessary to fold each selvage toward the center to create two folds.
The shirt was quick to make, with no real stitching issues caused by the four-way stretch. I tried it on and...it was too big. Armholes were too low, shoulders too wide...and the shirt was too long. When, exactly, had I used this pattern before?
What to do?
I thought about it for a couple of days, and decided to re-cut the body using my regular shirt pattern (which fits well), including replacing the sleeves, and saving the collar and placket. I placed the shirt front over the shirt and only cut around the armhole edges, shortening the shoulder line and raising the armhole opening. Re-cutting and adding new sleeves improved the shoulder line and armhole position, and the re-worked shirt now fits just fine.
Experiment #2
OK, so now I knew what to do with the pattern for a better fit, and I cut out a second shirt, using the flamingo print, and folding both selvages toward the center to create to folds as with the first shirt. I had NOT pre-washed this piece and the stabilizer kept the selvages flat for easier cutting...while watching baseball online, of course. I used my regular shirt pattern and super-imposed the placket from the original polo pattern over the front neckline.
I stitched it up exactly per the pattern instructions and...wait. Why is the collar/placket off-center on this one? I followed the diagrams on the instruction sheet EXACTLY. Disappointing, and I really liked that fabric, too.
Do over! I cut another from a second piece of fabric and started working on the placket again and...wait.
Off-center again!?! Enough!
Experiment #2A
I had already attached the placket to the front and cut the slit, so I had to formulate a new plan. Back when I was first starting to sew (1970?), I took a class through the Ohio State University county extension department on sewing with knits...the one and only sewing class I ever took. We were taught to make our own collar and placket from self-fabric. It's been years since I tried that, but I thought I'd give it a try, after ripping out the original placket stitching.
I cut solid woven fabric for the collar using the existing pattern piece. For the placket (1" wide finished) I cut two pieces about an inch longer than the already-cut slit and 2 1/2" wide (including 1/4" seam allowances). Reaching back into my memory archives and thinking the process through, I attached the placket pieces and collar.
The collar is sewn on right side up and then the raw edge is bound. The construction is not perfect, but workable, and the shirt was salvaged.
The remainder of the shirt was sewn with a stretch stitch, using a ball-point needle, which pierces the fabric around the fibers and not directly through the fibers, so that the fibers do not tear when the fabric is stretched.
It was good to renew the procedure in my mind, and I will use this going forward for another test or two...next time with self-fabric collar and placket using the toucan print.
Until next time, keep those sewing machines humming!
DTFM
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