Working On My Tan (Linen Pants)

Seersucker Suit Project, Part Seven

The final segment of this project, the co-ordinating tan linen pants, is now completed. I had forgotten how much I love sewing on linen...it's crisp, yet soft and pliable at the same time. This particular linen fabric is a bit coarse, but was easy to sew.

The pattern is the same used for the seersucker pants, although I cut these legs a bit slimmer as indicated on the pattern. (For the seersucker pants, I cut the legs straight down from the knee.)

Sidebar: I just had a text and Facebook conversation with my friend Robin Tittel from Prym/Dritz, the leading sewing notions company (Robin and I worked together at the JOANN Fabric and Craft Stores corporate office), who posted this image of a garment made by a member of the Portage County, Ohio, Rohal family for the Portage County Fair.

All the kids in this family learn to sew, male and female alike, and the guys have created some spectacular items over the years. This garment (looks like a robe) was made from the iconic Robert Kaufman money print fabric. http://www.robertkaufman.com/fabrics/pleasures_pastimes/ETJ-5211-1/

You may recall that several weeks ago I posted here this image of my pants made from the same fabric; they're great for casual Friday at work. This is also the pattern I used for both the linen and the seersucker pants in this project, which leads me back to today's focus:

The Tan Linen Pants

The three main points of focus in tailoring pants are the rear welt pockets, the front side pockets and the fly front. In researching the video links for the previous post, I learned a couple of tricks that I have implemented for the linen pants. (Thanks, Craftsy!) These tricks impacted both the rear welt pockets and front side pockets.

Rear Welt Pockets

Let's face it. Making rear welt pockets can be time-consuming if you don't make them often (needing to refresh yourself on the procedure), and that has often been a roadblock for me. Sometimes I have just given in and made patch pockets instead, but that doesn't feel right for dress pants. The most important point here is accurate marking, and the second most important point is basting, to hold the layers in place.

Tip: This time I machine-basted the welts in place using the widest zig-zag stitch, securing both welts at once. After the pocket lining was attached at the pocket opening, I removed the basting stitches so the welts would be loose for turning the pocket.

There is a rear pocket facing, a piece of garment fabric stitched to the pocket lining; this is what shows through the pocket opening when the pockets are finished.

Tip from the video: Instead of folding under the seam allowance for the rear pocket facing before stitching it to the pocket lining, trim off the seam allowance instead, finish the long raw edges of the facing and stitch it to the pocket lining. (I found a nice overedge stitch on the machine and used this to stitch down the facing and finish the edge at the same time.) This method greatly reduces bulk, especially with a heavier fabric like this linen.

Tip: After stitching the two long pocket opening seams, I slit the opening as directed, creating a triangle at each end and being careful not to cut the welts. With a coarsely-woven fabric like this linen, I was concerned that the triangles would fray out to nothing when the pocket was turned. To prevent this, I applied a bead of FrayChek (see prior post) to the edges of the triangles and let it dry...just a few minutes. This worked beautifully to keep the triangles intact.

Tip: Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ends of the welts through the opening Grip the welt firmly, especially with a coarsely-woven fabric, so that you don't just pull threads and cause the welt to fray.

Tip from the video: When the rear welt pockets are completed, add a bar tack (close-together narrow zig-zag stitching) at each end to add strength and durability.

The welts are not perfect, but they are more accurate than the welts in the seersucker pants, and were completed in considerably less time. Each time I make welts my skills will improve, and yours will, too!

Front Side Pockets

To apply the facings to the front side pocket linings, I used the same method as for the rear pocket facings, again eliminating bulk.

With these pants now finished, the Seersucker Suit Project is completed: two shirts, a suit jacket and two pairs of pants. Four pieces of fabric (some over 40 years old) have moved from the stash pile to the closet (making room for more new fabric on the stash, right?).

Next time: The Seersucker Suit Project Reveal! Until then, keep those sewing machines humming!

DTFM

danthefabricman@yahoo.com