Knot the usual tie.

What's a tie without a knot? It's an applique!

A few years ago while trend shopping for JOANN in New York City, I saw an interesting (and at $234, very expensive) shirt at a shop called Moschino, and felt sure I could duplicate it myself. When I arrived back home I hit their website for an image of the shirt (we were being closely watched in the shop and I was not able to take a photo there).

Basically, a tie was simply appliqued to the shirt front to look like it was being worn around the neck. What's applique, you ask? It's defined as ornamental needlework in which pieces of fabric are sewn onto a larger piece of fabric. In this case, it's a real tie, cut down and stitched to the shirt front.

Making an Expensive Shirt...for Free

In my stash back then was a nice piece of light blue twill shirting fabric, and I had a navy and red striped tie that belonged to my dad (I think he would be pleased I used it like this)...so I was all set, at no additional cost, by the way! I completed the shirt based on the Moschino photo, and people really do think I'm wearing an untied necktie around my neck (until they get closer).

Time for a New Christmas Shirt, Moschino-style

If you're a regular reader here, you'll remember that I recently realized all my Christmas shirts are at least 20 years old, so it's time to make a new one. I decided to re-create the Moschino shirt using a Christmas print fabric from Patrick Lose's Santa's Stash collection. I picked up a solid red tie at TJ Maxx for $4.00 on the clearance rack.

Tip: use a patterned tie on a solid fabric or a solid tie on a patterned fabric for best results.

Re-creating the Moschino Appliqued Tie Shirt

To create this look, cut out your shirt as usual and apply interfacing according to the pattern instructions. (Note: for this shirt style, there is no front pocket.) Stitch the back yoke pieces to the shirt back, and stitch the fronts to the back at the shoulders. Now you're ready to apply the tie to the shirt.

Preparing the Tie Applique

First, using a press cloth to protect the surface of the tie, press the tie edges very flat.

Tip: Usually the sides of a tie are never pressed flat so the tie has a nice rolled edge, but for an applique, you'll want this edge to be as flat as possible. I forgot to do this on the wide part of the tie, but remembered to do it on the narrow part, and it makes a big difference.

Cutting the Tie

Using the photo as a guide for positioning, cut the tie into the appropriate lengths for the two applique pieces.

Clip the threads securing the back of the tie pieces and open it out.

I used a ruler and rotary cutter to cut away most of the back of the tie, leaving a 1/2" edge to fold under. Because this tie fabric is cut on the bias, it will stretch or flex a bit, potentially becoming a challenge, so don't leave less than that 1/2".

Pin the 1/2" under along the edges of the tie, being careful not to snag the tie fabric with the pins. This is where pressing those tie edges flat will make a difference.

Time for the Applique

Position the tie applique pieces to the shirt front using the photo as a guide, and pin them to the shirt using the pins already in the applique. Using matching thread, edge-stitch the tie applique in place, removing pins as you sew.

If desired, press the shirt front from the back side; don't place the iron directly on the front of the tie. (Whenever I iron these shirts, I press the shirt fronts from the back side to protect the tie from the hot iron used on the cotton fabric.)

Finish the Shirt

Flip the shirt front over and trim the excess tie fabric along the neckline edges. Now complete the shirt per pattern directions...and you're all done! This new Christmas shirt isn't finished beyond stitching down the applique and adding the collar and collar band, so I'll finish it now and share the completed shirt with you next time.

As regular readers already know, one of my favorite things to do is to replicate expensive and offbeat ready-to-wear styles, and this shirt is no exception. I've never found another shirt at Moschino that I wanted to replicate, but I continue to check them out with every new season, as their collections change. Here is the link to their current shirt collection. https://www.moschino.com/us/moschino/men/shirts-fw17

Tip: If you decide to give this shirt a try, send me an email at the address below and I'll provide a diagram to help with the positioning of the applique pieces.

Until next time, keep those sewing machines humming, while I head up to the sewing studio to finish the Christmas shirt! Best wishes for a happy and creative 2018!

DTFM

danthefabricman@yahoo.com